Indian jewelry is a reflection of the country’s deep-rooted traditions, artistry, and cultural richness. Among the most celebrated styles are Kundan, Polki, and Jadau—each embodying the legacy of craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations. These jewelry forms, which originated in royal courts, continue to hold immense significance in Indian weddings, festive celebrations, and heirloom collections.
In this article, we’ll explore the history, craftsmanship, differences, and modern adaptations of these iconic jewelry styles.
1. The Royal Origins of Kundan, Polki, and Jadau
The art of making Kundan, Polki, and Jadau jewelry dates back to the Mughal era (1526–1857), when skilled artisans crafted exquisite pieces for emperors, queens, and noble families. These techniques flourished in Rajasthan and Gujarat, becoming integral to the royal jewelry traditions of India.
📜 Did You Know?
The Mughal emperors introduced refined jewelry-making techniques to India, blending Persian artistry with Indian aesthetics.
2. What is Kundan Jewelry?
Kundan jewelry is known for its intricate gemstone setting in gold foil. This technique involves placing highly refined gold (Kundan) between stones, creating a luxurious and ornate effect.
Key Features of Kundan Jewelry:
✅ Uses glass or semi-precious stones
✅ Gold foil holds the stones in place
✅ Usually paired with Meenakari (enamel work) on the reverse side
✅ Popular for bridal jewelry due to its elaborate designs
Process of Making Kundan Jewelry:
- Ghaat – The framework of the jewelry is created.
- Paadh – Gold foiling is applied to hold stones.
- Khudai – Gemstones are set into place.
- Pakai – Heating process to secure settings.
- Chillai – Final polishing and finishing.
💡 Fun Fact: Kundan jewelry was a favorite among Rajput and Mughal queens, symbolizing opulence and status.
3. What is Polki Jewelry?
Polki jewelry is made using uncut, natural diamonds in their raw form. Unlike Kundan, which uses glass stones, Polki pieces contain real diamonds, making them more valuable and radiant.
Key Features of Polki Jewelry:
💎 Made with uncut diamonds
💎 Often paired with gold settings
💎 Has a natural, rustic brilliance
💎 A preferred choice for luxury and bridal jewelry
Difference Between Kundan and Polki Jewelry:
| Feature | Kundan Jewelry | Polki Jewelry |
|---|---|---|
| Stones Used | Glass or semi-precious stones | Uncut natural diamonds |
| Value | Less expensive | More expensive due to real diamonds |
| Shine | Glossy, artificial shine | Natural diamond brilliance |
| Weight | Lighter | Heavier due to diamonds |
📊 Market Trend:
The demand for Polki bridal sets has increased by 30% in the last five years, as modern brides prefer traditional yet luxurious jewelry.
4. What is Jadau Jewelry?
Jadau is not a type of jewelry but a technique used to create Kundan and Polki jewelry. The word “Jadau” comes from the Hindi word “Jad”, meaning “to embed.”
Key Features of Jadau Jewelry:
✨ Handcrafted with extreme precision
✨ Uses gold, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires
✨ Typically seen in Rajput and Mughal-inspired jewelry
✨ Requires skilled artisans and is extremely labor-intensive
How Jadau Jewelry is Made:
- A gold framework is created.
- Stones or Polki diamonds are set into place without adhesives.
- Gold foiling holds the stones securely.
- The jewelry is polished for a refined look.
📜 Historical Significance:
Jadau was introduced to India by the Mughals, and Rajasthan and Gujarat remain the hubs for this exquisite craft today.
5. Why are These Jewelry Styles So Popular?
Kundan, Polki, and Jadau jewelry have stood the test of time, remaining popular across generations. Here’s why:
🌟 Bridal Favorite: Indian brides choose these styles for their regal and heritage appeal.
🌟 Investment Value: Polki jewelry retains high resale value due to its diamond content.
🌟 Cultural Heritage: These designs are deeply rooted in Indian traditions and family heirlooms.
🌟 Timeless Beauty: The handcrafted details make each piece unique and special.
📈 Jewelry Market Report:
- Kundan jewelry accounts for 40% of wedding jewelry sales in India.
- Polki jewelry has seen a 20% rise in exports due to global demand.
6. Modern Adaptations of Traditional Jewelry
While traditional Kundan, Polki, and Jadau jewelry remain popular for weddings and festivities, modern adaptations have made them more wearable for everyday and contemporary fashion.
Trendy Variations:
💖 Lightweight Kundan chokers for fusion outfits
💖 Polki earrings paired with Western dresses
💖 Jadau-inspired minimalist rings for everyday wear
💖 Kundan and Polki combinations in pastel shades for modern brides
📸 Celebrity Influence: Bollywood actresses like Deepika Padukone, Priyanka Chopra, and Sonam Kapoor have flaunted Kundan and Polki jewelry on red carpets and weddings, boosting their appeal.
7. How to Identify Authentic Kundan, Polki, and Jadau Jewelry
Since these jewelry types are valuable, counterfeit versions are common. Here’s how to verify authenticity:
✔ Check the weight – Real Polki is heavier than imitations.
✔ Look for BIS Hallmark – Ensures gold purity.
✔ Inspect the back – Authentic Kundan has Meenakari (enamel work) on the reverse.
✔ Ask for certification – Polki jewelry should come with diamond certification.
💡 Tip: Always buy from trusted jewelers or heritage brands to avoid fake pieces.
8. Conclusion: A Timeless Legacy
The rich heritage of Kundan, Polki, and Jadau jewelry continues to captivate jewelry lovers around the world. Whether you’re looking for an heirloom piece, a bridal set, or a luxurious accessory, these exquisite styles are worth investing in. Their blend of history, craftsmanship, and elegance ensures they remain forever cherished and admired.
So, whether you’re a bride-to-be or a jewelry connoisseur, there’s no doubt that these age-old treasures will never go out of style!
